The Isles of Scilly: A Reader's/Visitor's Guide

What I read, ate and sailed on holiday - plus all my Scilly secrets

I am back from a brief sojourn on the Isles of Scilly. Highlights included: walks through ferns and heathers to wild, near-empty vast swathes of white sand beach, my daughter swimming like a mermaid in icy seas (the temperature is bracing), the perfect pairing of fish and chips with English sparkling wine eaten on the beach at sunset, my son discovering a passion for sailing motor boats - being positively gleeful as we hit choppy water, rock pooling, honesty boxes filled with local produce (including bulbs, succulents, fudge, and truly excellent lip balm made by the children of St Martin’s School), reading on the beach, the feeling of going back in time to a simpler life where doors are left unlocked and children roam free.

And the answer to the question ‘Is five books for what ought to have been a week, but ended up being five days, a crazy amount of books to lug on a tiny plane?’ The answer is NO. Had we had the whole week, I would have run out. Horrors: the bookworm’s holiday nightmare.

Admittedly, I was helped by a long flight delay/cancellation on the way out which meant I made solid inroads into The Bee Sting, and a short delay on the way back. However, the latter meant that I discovered the bookshelves in the tiny airport on St Mary’s. (Which also has what must be in contention for the best airport cafe in the world? Independent, excellent coffee, homemade cakes. Costa it ain’t.) I picked up two Montalbanos I hadn’t read (I am half in love with Camilleri’s detective) - and promptly ceased to speak to my family.

Herewith a round-up of what I read - AND my insider’s guide to the Scillies. This is not just any guide, it benefits from wisdom gleaned from my husband’s family, who have been going for decades. Very little changes on the islands. So little, that when we first went, the taxi driver asked us if we’d been before. “Many times but not for nearly 20 years”, replied my husband. “Ah, you’ll find not much has changed,” the driver said, comfortably. So here you will find all the top tips - from the best beaches to the best gin. (This last research all my own.)

Please note that as this is an exceedingly lengthy post - this is what happens when you combine books and travel chat - it can’t be viewed in an email, so click on it to read in its entirety. And enjoy!